Beyond the Robots
Yes, robots spray-painted model Shalom Harlow. What came before that?
Model Shalom Harlow wearing the final look during the McQueen Spring 1999 Ready-to-Wear show. Photo by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Alexander McQueen’s Spring 1999 Ready-to-Wear show is one of the most acclaimed in fashion history. Why is it so iconic? For the final look, model Shalom Harlow walked out onto a circular platform wearing a belted, tulle dress. On both sides of her stood two large robots. As she spun, to her surprise, the robots spray-painted the dress. This is one of the historic moments that clearly show Alexander McQueen’s creative genius. It's safe to say, many lives were changed after this finale.
Over two decades later, this spectacle is still relevant. As fashion-lovers continue to reference and covet over ‘90s collections, McQueen Spring 1999 Ready-to-Wear is ever present. However, this collection is often referenced just for the final look. Though it changed the industry, the robot spectacle cannot speak for the entire collection. This writer strongly believes there lies more beyond the robots.
Models wearing full McQueen during the McQueen Spring 1999 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
The collection presented a cool color palette that gradually warmed up. Shades of blue, gray, and black morphed into browns and creams. As with his other collections, Alexander McQueen clearly worked on every detail of these pieces. The looks in this show were more modest than his previous collections. The same raw sexuality was subtly embraced in fewer pieces. The show, which included more than 70 looks, created a palatable level of uncomfort. Something felt off but in the most beautiful, Alexander McQueen kind-of-way.
His choice of fabric, for example, made his more simplistic designs purposeful. A stretched, latex material clung to a few of the models, tight like a second skin. He designed a few of his pieces with a glossy, knitted material that gave the appearance of wood lacquer. These dresses and suits shined like metallic liquids. Fitting into Alexander McQueen’s design style, some of the materials looked harsh or confining to wear. Two models were dressed in burlap: one showing a midi dress that shot out around the knees, the other in a cropped turtleneck and lace skirt. Both the dress and turtleneck bloomed with dark, hand-stitched embroidery. Even in the designs that appeared minimal, their fabrics gave them a deeper meaning.
Models wearing full McQueen during the McQueen Spring 1999 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Though the collection embraced more modest pieces, a few of the looks still showed skin and displayed the models’ bodies. See-through, mesh tops spread over their chests. Translucent maxi skirts flared out towards the floor with ruffles or lace. Minimalist dresses clung tight to their bodies, tracing and outlining their limbs. A majority of the tailored suit jackets were styled with no undershirt, revealing the models’ torsos. As with their matching outerwear, the pants hung down below the waist bone and cut off above the ankle.
For this collection, the nudity was precise and purposeful. A McQueen collection is meant to shock but in the best way possible. These glimpses of the body likely represent the tortured and darker side of society. Specifically, they offer a glimpse into the gender confinement of the ‘90s. There was a societal expectation for women to not embrace their inner sexuality. Additionally, in his Spring 1995 Ready-to-Wear collection, Alexander McQueen raised awareness about abuse of women. Though the Spring 1999 Ready-to-Wear collection focused on different themes, it's clear he was still dedicated to this cause. The exposed skin in this collection is minimal, but it relates to massive societal problems.
Models wearing full McQueen during the McQueen Spring 1999 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by Condé Nast Archive, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Of course, it cannot be a McQueen show without constriction. This style element came about in a few different ways throughout the show. These looks strayed away from the main, tight silhouette in favor of more abnormal shapes. For example, model and Paralympic athlete Aimee Mullins walked in the show. Alexander McQueen designed wooden legs carved with flowers and heeled feet for Mullins. For her top, she wore a stitched, brown leather corset that resembled wood. The top mirrored the heeled legs, giving off the image of a constricted body.
The same can be said for a jeweled wire that circled around another model. The piece, which spiraled from her head to her thigh, closed her into a shining cage. Whereas some of the models could move freely and pose with their arms, she stayed within the wire. Similar to the brown leather corset, another model was styled in a paneled top. The piece clung around her waist like an ordinary corset, but larger panels stuck out over her shoulders and back. These panels appeared like glossed wood, and while they created a wing shape, they still appeared heavy and sharp. These pieces added a more concrete effect to the uncomfortable nature of the show.
Clearly, the robots at the finale add onto the success of this dark and meaningful show. The style elements, ranging from the fabric to the cut of the pieces, hold cultural value and meaning. Though the ending spectacle shocked the fashion world, this collection is more than just a cool trick. The robots, though delightful, do not measure up to the high-quality looks Alexander McQueen produced.
