Cute, Creepy, True
In Ashley Williams’ world, everything is sparkly and cute, but with an edge. There are bubblegum-pink satin bows and slogan tees that scream I HATE EVERYTHING, along with ruffled handbags and babydoll dresses reminiscent of a goth uniform. Her aesthetic is a balancing act. This crossover between hyper-feminine nostalgia and gothic couture speaks directly to those raised on Tumblr, subcultures, and the internet.
Ashley Williams, for an interview with Refinery29. Available via Refinery29. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Since founding her label in 2013, Williams has created a contradictory universe: one that is both cute and creepy, handcrafted and AI-driven, soft and harsh. The designer graduated from the University of Westminster and started gaining popularity in the London fashion scene with Fashion East, a program that helped launch designers such as Simone Rocha. But where designers such as Rocha have leaned into elegance, Williams has leaned into emotion and honesty. Her S/S25 recent show, titled The Cycle Repeats, is focused on growing up as a girl. The collection was split into three phases, “each capturing the anxiety and stress of the transition from girlhood to womanhood,” writes Amber Chow for Hypebae.
A look from Ashley Williams’ F/W25 collection, featuring pixelated manga-inspired graphics and layered tights and socks. Available via Hypebae. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Her designs and ideas are unmistakable. Williams combines 2000s mall-goth colors and shapes with ironic visuals, including vintage cats, faded florals, and slogans sprawled across fabric in glitter text. Her F/W25 collection featured manga-style prints and AI-generated animal motifs, accompanied by sheer lace and soft fabrics. It's high fashion through the eyes of a teenage girl, obsessed with everything.
This idea was translated widely. Beyond runway looks, Williams creates a range of accessories, including oversized ironic tees and satin rosettes or bedazzled hair clips featuring words like "LOVER" or "ANXIETY." Her work is emotionally maximalist, designed to make the consumer feel like a character in their own story.
A collection of looks from the Ashley Williams S/S24 show. Photographed by Daniele Oberrauch, Sept 2023. Available via Hypebeast. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
And that’s exactly Williams’ point. Her audience is deeply focused on self-expression and wants to stand out. The brand resonates with individuals who are highly online and self-aware, as well as those who utilize fashion as a means to express and process emotions. Her popularity among Gen Z has been fueled by meme culture and moodboards, but it’s rooted in something more profound. Williams’ pieces give visual form and presence to feelings that are hard to process and are often contradictory, just like her style.
A campaign photograph from Ashley Williams x Bluebella. The satin pajamas feature a variety of graphics of kittens and a range of colors. Photographed by Bluebella. Available via Hypebae. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Her impact goes beyond the runway, too. Collaborations have helped bring attention to her subversive universe, such as her 2023 collaboration with lingerie brand Bluebella. The two brands utilized a range of fabrics to create a seductive and ironic collection for their consumers. Emily Bendell, Bluebella’s Founder and CEO, was just as passionate about working with Williams as she was about creating a new product, stating, “We have loved collaborating on this unique collection that is just as suited to wearing at home as it is to styling as outerwear.” In their world, bras are covered in doodles ,and nightgowns are seen as outerwear.
Ashley Williams understands what many fashion houses do not: fashion is no longer about status but emotion. “I want to connect with people through my work and let that be my motivation,” she said. Williams knows that her customers keep returning because they see themselves in her work. Her clothes aren’t for the minimalist or ultra-polished, but for the girl who wears glitter on her errands or the shopper who wants to make a statement.
