Diesel Explosion

Generic gasoline can’t light up the fashion world. Sometimes, all it needs is a bit of Diesel. 

Backstage at Diesel Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear. A model stands against a graffiti-splashed backdrop, embodying Glenn Martens’ chaotic elegance. The acid yellow ruffled bandeau teeters between DIY rebellion and sculptural precision, while the high-waisted denim skirt evokes a reengineered Y2K silhouette. Styled with iridescent accessories and dystopian whiteout lenses, the look captures Diesel’s signature: raw attitude, refashioned for the future. Photo by Acielle / Style Du Monde, made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

The Italian brand Diesel exploded in 2020. Amidst the chaos of the COVIC pandemic, creativity sprung out from isolation and prescribed-home boredom. Specifically, this writer cites the significance of Glenn Martens’ appointment as creative director of Diesel. For the past five years, the Italian brand has fused together street style and high fashion elements. 

Backstage at Diesel Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear. In a quiet moment of tension and tactility, a model clutches Diesel’s now-iconic padded white shoulder bag—an exaggerated, ergonomic shape that toes the line between fashion object and fetish artefact. Paired with a sheer top etched in ghostly patterns and a liquid satin skirt, the look channels Glenn Martens’ obsession with anatomical contrast: soft vs. structured, sensual vs. synthetic. Photo by Acielle / Style Du Monde, made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

With Glenn Martens’ appointment in 2020, the brand spread like wildfire. The collections, never boring and never repetitive, gain massive attention online. Unlike traditional denim brands like Levi’s, Diesel is in a state of constant evolution. Any piece from the Italian brand makes a bold and declarative statement. As advertised online, Diesel clothing is “for successful living.”

Models posing in full Diesel from the Diesel Pre-Fall 2023 collection. Photos courtesy of Diesel, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

In November of 2022, Martens took a unique approach to embracing ‘90s and 2000s nostalgia. The Diesel Pre-Fall 2023 collection blazed with fashion it-items from decades past. Cropped shirts, baggy pants, and heeled boots ensued. Bold prints splashed against denim and tight jackets cinched models’ waists. With the sharpness of these designs, each look shared a fierce and unapologetic tone. 

Warning: whoever dislikes well-crafted sets should not view this collection. Whether it was denim on denim, mesh camouflage, or classic chrome, the two-piece sets stunned. As Diesel is a leather goods brand, their denim sets expressed a range of styles. Baggy high-rise and tight low-rise paired well with matching hoodies and biker jackets. The same can be said about the monochromatic looks that popped out against the runway’s background.  

Models walking in the Diesel Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

The shreds, oh the shreds. In September of 2023, Martens (literally) tore through Milan Fashion Week. Maxi dresses were ripped and denim tops stretched to their breaking point. Some designers wouldn’t dream of tearing their garments; Glenn Martens is not one of them. The beauty of these ripped patterns turn these pieces into works of art. Clearly, the Diesel Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection was both messy and purposeful. 

This theme appeared as the show progressed. The many tattered pieces became fewer, sleeker designs. Denim and knit materials faded out while mesh and silk took over. The mixed-print chaos in the beginning of the show grabbed the viewers’ attention. These high contrasted looks, made of different materials or prints, is what Diesel is known for. Martens designed over 70 looks for this collection and his meticulous work paid off. 

Models walking in the Diesel Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

In September of 2024, Martens found inspiration in Diesel’s heart: denim. The pants and shorts made with this material (extreme, distressed), stuck out against the denim rubble on the floor. The once pants-only fabric was morphed into tailored jackets, dresses, and cloaks. With an open mind, Martens let denim take over and spread throughout the collection. Ultimately, it served as a reminder for what the “D” in “Diesel” stands for. 

Apart from the Italian brand’s roots, Diesel Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear seemed almost Rick Owens at times. Most of the models wore colored eye lenses, turning their fixed gazes into a blinding white or red. Most of the looks seemingly referenced a dystopian future. The models walked in dark, chromatic pieces and moved with perfect posture. The collection showed a muted color palette, with more vibrant looks towards the end. It was a true tribute to how the brand has grown over time. 

Models walking in the Diesel Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

Of course, the most recent collection reveals the beauty of Diesel. In a world where virality means success, the runway alone sent shockwaves everywhere. The Diesel team recruited around 7,000 people to paint the scene with graffiti. The result? An explosion of creativity that served as a backdrop for the Fall 2025 collection. The clothes were unlike any other from the brand’s past. The contrast of shapes and hues really made this collection the success it was. 

Specifically, the show opened with models wearing dark charcoal, tweed pieces. These well-tailored tops and bottoms turned into houndstooth coats and dresses. As with every Diesel show, not everything is as it seems. Soon, pops of electric yellow and red appeared. These colors came in the form of modernly draped tops and coats. As the show ended, the final models wore classic, denim pants and taped tops designed to resemble button up shirts. How else would a creative designer upgrade work wear? 

Diesel is an explosion. Though the brand was founded in 1978, when Glenn Martens became creative director in 2020, the fashion world changed. Nowadays, it might seem like digital technology is replacing creativity. Diesel is embracing technology by using it as a tool, not a challenge to overcome. As the 2020s continue, it is thrilling to know Diesel is out there, blowing critics’ minds.