Post-Karl, Pre-Future
Karl Lagerfeld defined much of Chanel’s modern image and aesthetic, and in his absence, the house has been forced to reframe its identity through a new creative lens.
Karl Lagerfeld’s Spring/Summer 1995 collection for Chanel captures a moment of unapologetic spectacle, with Claudia Schiffer in a rhinestone-studded cherry-red bikini, crystal-embellished double-C belt, and graphic terry coat — a sharp interplay of pop sensuality and couture theatrics.
Photographed by Gérard Julien via Getty Images, available via Vogue © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Chanel went back to their roots for their Spring-Summer 2025 Ready-To-Wear collection shown in the Grand Palais in Paris, a venue that the late Karl Lagerfeld found and transformed. Nigina Sharipova is styled in Chanel. Photographed by Inez & Vinoodh. Available via IG @chanelofficial. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
When you think of Chanel, you think of Karl Lagerfeld. The renowned designer helped revitalize the brand after joining in the early 1980s, making Chanel one of the top fashion houses in the world under his guidance. He was able to revive a dying brand after the loss of its namesake founder by revamping the brand's ready-to-wear collection. Not only is he credited with changing Chanel's famed silhouette from the '60s, but he also created their iconic interlocked CC monogram logo, which is still prevalent in their designs. There will never be another Karl Lagerfeld. After the loss of the legendary designer in 2019, the brand was searching again for someone to not only lead their creative direction- but completely reinvent it.
Chanel ruled fashion during the 80s and 90s with legendary designer, Karl Lagerfeld at the helm. Yasmeen Ghauri styled in Chanel. Available via IG @hautecouturefashionista. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
With such big shoes to fill, everyone wondered who the brand would appoint as their next creative director. Despite her not being well-known, they almost immediately named Virginie Viard as his successor. What many don't know is that for the last thirty years, the designer had been working closely with Lagerfeld before his death, making her an easy choice for the job. She took the brand into a more modern direction, focusing on less extravagant and wearable designs during her brief tenure. While she still held shows in the Grand Palais in Paris, her shows were less elaborate, focusing more on the clothes than the atmosphere. It was a completely different look for Chanel, but the designer still left her mark before her departure last year, with many fans embracing the new look and the new designer.
During a difficult time in Chanel's past, Viard's contemporary approach to design helped cement the brand’s place and influence in luxury fashion. Some critics were excited by her departure with, The Cut’s Cathy Horyn stating, “Chanel needed a change. Outgoing designer Virginie Viard didn’t, or couldn’t, give the house the modernity or innovation required.” However, customers vehemently disagreed, demanding more from the designer who has only been the third creative to helm the brand. Many customers and industry professionals were concerned with her departure. Viard was so familiar with Chanel’s style and values that it was hard to see how anyone else could fill Lagerfeld’s role. It wasn’t until they announced that the former Bottega Veneta creative director, Matthieu Blazy, would be taking the role that people started to see Chanel’s new future.
It's a historic move for Blazy, who defied the odds and beat out more widely-known peers, like Marc Jacobs, for one of the most coveted positions in fashion. As the second-largest brand in fashion, they're not just looking for someone who can execute Chanel’s style- they’re looking for someone who can transform it into something better. When talking to Business of Fashion in an interview, Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s fashion president said, “We didn’t choose Matthieu to just ‘do Chanel,’ we chose him so he could push the boundaries of what Chanel is, for the future.” Meaning they’re looking for change and a reimagination of the brand’s style during this new tenure. Chanel believes Blazy’s new creative vision can help reinforce the brand’s position as a leader in luxury fashion.
It remains to be seen what the future of Chanel looks like, but everyone should have more of an idea after Blazy releases his debut collection in September. Even though the designer known for his cutting-edge collections has only recently joined the helm at Chanel, many are anxiously anticipating his upcoming debut. His modern approach to luxury design features many different cultural references with garments inspired by ordinary pieces. His designs tend to feature an array of colors compared to the more monotone Chanel- it will be interesting to see how he incorporates his essence into Chanel’s iconic style.
Chanel has had one of the most legendary legacies from founder, “CoCo” Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard the brand has been one of the top competitors in luxury fashion. Even now, the brand has seen a resurgence in popularity despite Lagerfeld’s passing. While it may not need a change it’s important for Chanel to always be evolving. They worked tirelessly to ensure their next designer would be able to reinvigorate the brand’s message, style, and influence. The brand believes Matthieu Blazy is the perfect candidate to breathe new life into the vast creative operation at Chanel. Customers and fashion peers will ultimately be the ones to decide the fate of the brand.
