Psychedelic Dreamscape

In the early 2000s, no one did camp like Betsey Johnson. Her iconic creations and runway shows inspire the fun side of fashion today. 

A model wears Look 17 from Betsey Johnson’s Spring 2011 collection—a gauzy white romper, cinched with lace and paired with offbeat accessories, drifting down the runway in a haze of soft rebellion and dreamlike excess. Available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

The brand Betsey Johnson, at its most popular, was a beacon of hope. Its founder: the Betsey Johnson brought vibrant life and maximalist looks to the runway. The early 2000s, with the pop music scene booming, offered the perfect landscape for her designs. The nostalgia for this period carried on all the way into 2025. Nowadays, it can seem like designers are constantly referencing each other. It can be hard to differentiate between the giant luxury brands depending on the collection. 

Betsey Johnson stood out. No matter if it was a rainbow choker or a phone-shaped bag; you knew who designed it. Two decades ago, times were simpler but fashion was louder. Bold prints ruled everyday wear and consumers wore heels casually. Sweatpants were something you mostly wore at home. What a time! Betsey Johnson’s ready-to-wear collections truly influenced the fashion scene. Their psychedelic nature is something us fashion-lovers can dream to see again. 

Models wearing Betsey Johnson during the Betsey Johnson Spring 2002 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by JB Villareal, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

In 2001, Betsey Johnson combined ‘90s grunge and babydoll clothing. The result? A vibrant collection with mismatched prints and many, many short skirts. Lace, silk, and cotton took over the show. Ruffled skirts were paired with mini tops and sheer, lace dresses exposed black undergarments. To top off each look (in the literal sense), each model wore a Panama hat. Could this show possibly get more 2000s? 

Since it was a spring collection, each of the models sported a sunkissed tan. Their hair bounced in waves and curls around their gold jewelry. Layering played a huge role in the creation of these looks. Black lace peered out behind colorful ruffles. Maximalist jewelry accompanied lace, fingerless gloves. The belts had metallic studs. The dresses had colorful embroidery. To add even more spunk, the models walked with attitude, and some even winked as they posed. 

Models wearing Betsey Johnson during the Betsey Johnson Spring 2003 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos courtesy of Betsey Johnson, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

In terms of fantasy, the Spring 2003 Ready-to-Wear collection was a splash in the sun. Breaking away from the grunge-whimsy contrast, Betsey Johnson embraced louder, more bohemian designs. Floral prints spread across mini dresses, cropped tops, and maxi skirts. Instead of the Panama hat, the models wore sparkling tiaras. What goes well with a princess headpiece? Aviators, of course! The models shaded their eyes in style, with glowing, colorful lenses. 

The sun-filled show took place at Betsey Johnson’s East Hampton home. The poolside tiles formed the runway and her floral garden accented the scene. Adding magic to the madness, tiered skirts with ruffles shook as the models walked. For silhouettes, the tops clung tight to the models whereas their skirts and pants flowed out toward the bottom. Fitting in with the scenery, the last 14 looks included swimwear pieces. Perfect for the beach, these bikinis and one-pieces included low cuts and bold prints. 

Models wearing Betsey Johnson during the Betsey Johnson Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear show. Photos by Marcio Madeira, and made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.

If there were any doubts that Betsey Johnson wasn’t camp, they were officially shut down in 2003. The Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear collection was born at the intersection of playful colors and erotic shapes. Many of the tops included low v-cut or sweetheart necklines. A few models were given sheer tops with feathers that popped around their chests. The jeans, mini skirts, and mini shorts hung down below the models’ waists, similar to Alexander McQueen’s Spring 1995 Ready-to-Wear collection. Ultimately, the show exposed skin and embraced it boldly. 

The beauty of this collection lies within its details. Sequin tops, skirts, and mini dresses lit up the runway. Printed shirts boasted phrases like “JOB,” “Fluffer,” and “Guys (heart) B.J.” While these phrases seem startling at first, they hold a deeper meaning. “Guys (heart) B.J.” is a play on both sex and the brand’s campy reputation. In this collection, Betsey Johnson reclaimed erotic clothes for women. From the sheer camisoles, to the shark-inspired underwear, she modernized the way women dress. Putting on something sexy doesn’t have to be about impressing another person, you can wear it for yourself, embracing your own confidence. 

In 2015, Betsey Johnson unveiled her last runway collection. Though her shows stopped, her influence on the 2000s fashion scene lives on. She brought a newer, full of life perspective to the industry. Her shows will not be forgotten as they proved how fashion can, sometimes, be fun.