The Reclamation of Black Fashion
This year’s Met Gala theme “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” explores the erasure and importance of black designers and fashion throughout history.
Rapper Akeem Ali, actor Keith Powers, actress Danielle Deadwyler, and artist Honor Titus discuss the importance of finding mediums to express individuality and dynamism in Black culture with Vogue. Styled by the legendary Law Roach. Ali wears a Maison Margiela coat and Ozwald Boateng suit, Powers wears a Brunello Cucinelli jacket with an Amiri shirt and trousers, Deadwyler wears Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, and Titus wears a Giuliva Heritage jacket and Bode pants. Photographed by Tyler Mitchell for Vogue, April 2025. Available via Vogue Magazine. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
The Met Gala is the pinnacle fashion event celebrating different cultures and history through stunning clothing that often reflects current social and political climates. Each year, the Gala has a theme that showcases a major part of fashion history, often inspired by literary references. This year’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” is not only inspired by the Black dandy but Monica Miller’s book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity and Zora Neale Hurston’s essay “Characteristics of Negro Expression.” Miller, a guest curator this year, said she was excited to highlight important figures in Black history who helped shape the culture around Black style. The Gala aims to redefine history, bringing awareness to the erasure of Black designers and creatives despite the integral roles they played in fashion.
It’s truthfully a reclamation of Black fashion, spotlighting Black creatives and style while giving credit to an industry and society that typically marginalizes them. Black creatives were central figures who helped shape the culture of fashion throughout history. With the many negative expectations placed on the Black community, fashion has provided an outlet to challenge the stereotypes. Fashion has always been a form of protest and resistance, but it has also been a way to express resiliency. The Black dandy is the epitome of rebellion, they defied expectations at the time with their stylish suits and tailored clothing. Starting their own movement and trends while becoming cultural icons in history and fashion. Too many important pieces of history have been overlooked, simply because they were accomplished by Black individuals. It’s time the fashion industry gives credit and recognition where it’s due.
Designer Ann Lowe adjusts model Alice Baker’s gown in 1962. Photographed by Getty Images for Vogue, April 2022. Available via Vogue Magazine. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Despite facing discrimination and exclusion, Black designers have continued to prevail securing their importance in the fashion history books. Legendary designers like Ann Lowe- who is widely credited as the first notable Black American fashion designer- were often overlooked during their time. Lowe wasn’t even credited with designing Jackie Kennedy’s iconic wedding dress until recently along with other numerous important contributions. This Gala will finally give Lowe and other Black designers the recognition they always deserved. Reasserting the fact that Black creatives have consistently played important roles in fashion even though society has tried to erase their history.
Designers Stephen Burrows and Willi Smith have a great fashion legacy between them with each of them having a museum exhibit respectively. Photograph via IG @bcunninghamfilm. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Lowe isn’t the only victim, many Black designers didn’t receive proper credit or fair treatment and compensation for their work. Willi Smith is often overlooked as the godfather of streetwear fashion despite being regarded as one of the most successful Black designers at the end of his life. Not only did he help democratize fashion, but his company was the first to create womenswear and menswear under the same label. His streetwear style is still industry standard, yet somehow, his contributions to fashion are rarely discussed. It’s important that the fashion industry continues discussing and crediting Black designers after the Met Gala, Black creatives deserve more encouragement and support from industry members.
In Black culture, it seems that fashion isn’t just about expressing yourself, but fully embracing and loving yourself and your culture. It’s been a tool for Black creatives to acknowledge the pain and injustice throughout history while celebrating the resiliency of their people. Designers like Patrick Kelly have used fashion as a way to celebrate the Black identity while challenging the history of oppression. Fashion has played a vital role in Black history and community, providing an outlet for freedom and expression during even the most trying times. It will be interesting to see how this year’s Met Gala explores the importance of not only Black creatives in fashion but the importance of fashion in the Black community.
