Luxury On Paper
Across time and space, luxury brands have advertised their collections to consumers. Print ads offer the best and most influential space for their designs.
A Versace advertisement from the ‘90s made available via Ayerhs Magazine. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
Since their birth, luxury brands have done one thing right: tell a story. Through videos, billboards, and posts, giants like Gucci can spread their image and power. In the fashion industry, no medium can tell a brand’s story better than iconic print ads. Though A.I. is rapidly developing, fashion magazines like Vogue and Cosmopolitan will never go out of style. The photoshoots and advertisements in their print issues can make or break a brand’s image and sales.
Throughout fashion history, print ads have given brands the opportunity to reach consumers. Whether the models are posed on a yacht, or shopping in a grocery store, these photoshoots relay a brand’s aesthetic to a mass audience. Think of Kate Moss for Calvin Klein or Natalie Portman for the Miss Dior perfume. Though their image grabs attention, celebrities are just a small part of the greater picture. Print ads over time have changed the way luxury brands are perceived.
An advertising campaign for Ralph Lauren Spring 1988 made available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
In the ’80s, luxury brands began matching their advertisements with a certain aesthetic. Chanel relied on close-up shots of models decorated with pearls and tweed jackets. The models often posed while smirking or looking at the camera. Valentino stuck to a fierce color palette with shades of red and black. The brand used white backgrounds to create color-contrast that made the clothes pop.
With these differences, the luxury brands were easy to tell apart. For example, Ralph Lauren always sported a preppy, conservative look. The brand did (and still does) specialize in polo shirts, jewelry, and formal wear. Their ads in the ’80s offered the upper class, Hamptons lifestyle to consumers. As the ’80s ended, luxury brands cemented their image across the pages of fashion magazines.
Model Naomi Campbell in an advertisement for Thierry Mugler Spring 1990. Model Linda Evangelista in an advertisement for Lanvin Spring 1992. Photos made available via Harper's Bazaar Singapore. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
The ‘90s embraced grunge and the advertising world mirrored this. Photographers and advertisers tried more risqué and experiential techniques. For instance, look at the above Thierry Mugler Spring 1990 ad. Yes, Naomi Campbell was the face of the campaign but the photo’s raw energy speaks more about the brand. If you’re unaware of Mugler, the brand embraced a dark sensuality and pieces that accentuated the models’ bodies. This ad is simple and creates contrast between the black background and the sharp-cut, white top Naomi is wearing. It grabs just the right amount of attention to get you curious about the rest of Thierry’s work.
While some brands embraced the heavier side of society, certain luxury labels remained the same with their aesthetic. At the time, Gianni Versace created beautiful, vivid designs with mixed patterns and shapes. The clothes, bold enough on their own, took up the pages of magazines. The brand name would pop up from time to time on the photos, normally farther away from the models. Gianni left the world too soon, but his dedication to a clear image for Versace remained constant during the ‘90s.
An advertisement for Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2003, shot by Craig McDean. An advertisement for Calvin Klein Spring 2004, shot by Steven Meisel. Photos made available via Fashion Gone Rogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
A new millennium, a new way to advertise. The 2000s embraced everything: reality tv, the club scene, the rise of new pop stars, and more. In this peculiar era, luxury clothing ads mixed with fantasy. The photo shoots were centered around the idea that “sex sells.” The Gucci ad campaign in 2003 perfectly represents this phenomenon. The models seductively posed in a dark corner wearing Gucci pieces. Though not as grunge as the ‘90s, the early 2000s embraced the same type of raw sensuality.
Additionally, luxury brands paid more attention to their shoot’s location. For example, the Alberta Ferretti Fall 2008 campaign pictured models on a subway train. The clothes, modern yet semi-professional, made the models look chic while they posed in an ordinary setting. Extraordinary photographers like David LaChapelle and Annie Lebowitz made shoots in the 2000s stand out. As the world turned into the next decade, print magazines were blessed with their striking photos.
An advertisement for Lanvin SS2010, shot by Steven Meisel. An advertisement for Miu Miu FW2010, shot by Mert & Marcus. Photos made available via REFINERY29. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
The 2010s created social media. As millions posted across platforms, consumers digitally shared their thoughts about runway shows. (Almost) everyone who cared about fashion had a blog. This scene birthed more cinematic andother-worldly ad campaigns. Suddenly, motion played a huge part in the success of a photoshoot. Look above at the Lanvin SS2010 ad. The models, though dressed in the latest collection, posed in a contorted manner. The shape of their bodies mimicked the 3D shape of their dresses. Clearly, the more action in the photo, the more attention the consumers give.
Luxury fashion advertisements sell a lifestyle to consumers. Today, print magazines still hold a large audience within the fashion industry. The ads that line these pages carry power and influence over consumers. As advertising changes, it is a mystery as to what luxury brands will do next.
