Worshipping The Idol
Although HBO’s series The Idol received a lot of backlash from both critics and fans due to its explicit content and somewhat disturbing plotlines, the fashion it showcased was truly a moment in time for those allured by a bold, pop-star aesthetic.
Lily-Rose Depp as Jocelyn in HBO’s The Idol sporting a black Didu mini mesh bra with a matching Guizio micro mini skirt and Diesel s-prototype low sneakers. Photographed by Eddy Chen for The Idol, June 2023. Available via eddychenphotography. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.
HBO’s The Idol, which aired weekly during the summer of 2023, follows Jocelyn, a pop-star recovering from a nervous breakdown after the death of her abusive mother. As she prepares to release her comeback single, she meets Tedros, a shady club promoter with a group of misfit artists he hopes to launch into stardom. Jocelyn, played by Hollywood angel Lily-Rose Depp, then finds herself torn between reigniting her career and navigating a toxic personal and work relationship with Tedros. Despite all of the craziness that ensues throughout this program, viewers were treated to a slew of incredible fashions that effortlessly communicate an aesthetic fit for Los Angeles’ most unstable pop-star.
Costume designer Natasha Newman-Thomas made an effort to communicate the idea that a pop-star of Jocelyn’s caliber had to have a style that was unattainable by anyone who wasn’t her. An iconic scene in the first episode of the show where Jocelyn is rehearsing choreography that accompanies her comeback single “World Class Sinner / I’m A Freak” conveyed her insecurity about reentering the industry. As she fumbles through the choreography, her backup dancer Dyanne, played by Blackpink’s Jennie Kim, steps in as a guide. Jocelyn’s outfit, a black Didu top with a matching Guizio mini skirt and Diesel sneakers, for this scene showcases an excess amount of skin and does not lend itself to be comfortable dance attire. However, the outfit perfectly communicates Jocelyn’s star quality and sex appeal as it starkly juxtaposed the more functional attire worn by her backup dancers. By styling Jocelyn in an overtly revealing outfit, even in a private dance rehearsal setting, Newman-Thomas highlights the fact that Jocelyn is always performing, using her supermodel frame to shield herself and distract from her inner turmoil.
Jocelyn's custom Nusi Quero bodysuit that she wore for her first music video shoot since returning to the spotlight, accurately depicts the dichotomy between her lavish pop-star lifestyle and the internal emotion and stress that accompanies it. While Jocelyn completely stands out against a sea of backup dancers in all black ensembles, she is stuck in a metallic pink prison that represents the cycle of abuse that was passed on from her late, overbearing mother to the music industry itself. Jocelyn found herself struggling to get through the shoot as it was the first time she had worked on a project without her mother there. As the bad takes piled up, her kitten heels caused her feet to bleed making for a jarring representation of what pouring all of yourself into your craft and an industry that values the exploitation of talented, young women really gets you.
Despite the heavy criticism that the program received for its content, Natasha Newman-Thomas brought a level of nuance to the show through how she styled its characters, specifically Jocelyn, that made it worth the watch. By using a selection of revealing yet expressive clothing to convey the story of a pop-star beaten down by an industry that only views her only as a means to a financial end, Newman-Thomas helped develop a character that showcased the highs and lows of fame all wrapped up in a metaphorical, designer bow.
