Fashion's New Religion

In Edward Berger’s new film, Conclave, the sudden death of the Pope sends the Vatican into sworn secrecy and ceremonial order. The cardinals gather as both men of God, but also as symbols of tradition and power, cloaked in crimson and gold. They seem unattainable and heavenly as they amble through marble hallways, but their gossip reminds the viewer they are just like us. It’s moody. It’s theatrical. And it’s fashionable.

Carlos Diehz, starring in Edward Berger’s Conclave, a religious thriller about the sudden search for a new pope. Available via IMDb. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.  

Even though Conclave is presented as a high-stakes thriller, it is a subtle masterclass in storytelling through aesthetics. The rituals, the vestments, and the architecture make it a Renaissance painting come to life. For younger audiences raised on TikTok and Tumblr, the sacred mystique pulls them in. It becomes a stylized take on a serious political drama. Berger leans into the pageantry of Catholicism to examine its allure in the world, as well as its aesthetic. 

This turn towards sacred style isn’t new, but has become newly central. Over the past few seasons, fashion has used religious iconography for silhouettes and drama. Valentino’s F/W23 show, under the direction of Pierpaolo Piccioli, showcased a series of looks in cardinal red, a color synonymous with Vatican symbolism. Paired with high necklines and minimalist hems, the models walked down the runway like saints or sinners, aiming for the holy land. 

Look 30 of Valentino’s Fall/Winter 2023 show, using the striking color of Cardinal red. Photographed by Valentino. Available via Valentino. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.  

Conclave fits right into this moment. The cardinals’ vestments with blood red silk and deep black cossacks are historical, but also stylish. Berger allows the fabrics to speak for themselves. A recurring motif puts Cardinal Lomeli against the backdrop of stained glass, illuminating him like a Caravaggio painting. The camera lingers on the texture of fabric and the shine of the rosary. The entire film is a study of devotional detail. 

This is a broader cultural shift. In this age of algorithm and endless scrolling, there’s something new in the slow and minimal lifestyle found in religion. While Gen Z may not be filling as many pews as past generations, they definitely know how to build altars online. #Nuncore and #Angelcore are common hashtags to see on one’s ForYou page and Pinterest. These niches and subcultures blend devotional imaging with self-expression with black veils, lace dresses, and layers that echo a priest's cassock.  

A scene from Conclave featuring Sergio Castellitto cloaked in red and moody lighting, creating an intense ambiance. Available via IMDb. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.  

Conclave is designed for this exact audience. Berger clearly sets the mood, knowing it will draw in younger, creative crowds. The film isn’t interested as much in theology as it is in iconography. Everything is purposeful, curating the scene. Even the lighting feels as if you’re in a confessional booth, admitting to your sins. The viewer becomes a voyeur, peering through windows and over balconies, creating a sense of separation and mystery. At one point, Lomeli wanders through the gardens alone. As the viewer is allowed to sneak a peek, we are left without knowing his thoughts, romanticizing his late-night walk.

The same ambiguity is found today in fashion. Brands like Eckhaus Latta and The Row use draping and minimal colors to allude to religious inspiration, but never make literal references. Other designers, such as Dilara Findikoglu, are much more literal in their designs. Her 2023 “Not a Man’s Territory” collection featured corseted gowns, pearls, ruffles, and organza veils, all common in medieval religious iconography. 

A runway look from Dilara Findikoglu’s show, “Not a Man’s Territory.” Here, we see religiously inspired touches such as her face-covering veil and pearls. And, once again, cardinal red is used. Available via Hypebae. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.  

But this use of sacred inspiration does not come without controversy. The 2018 Met Gala’s Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination exhibit, featured Rihanna in a custom Maison Margiela papal mitre. The look was both celebrated and criticized, raising the question of when does fashion move from inspiration to offensive?

Still, there is power in reclaiming symbols for personal meaning. As Conclave shows, religion is not static, but evolves. And right now, it’s being interpreted in a way it has never been before. So if you’re watching Conclave for a thriller, or looking at the runway for stark silhouettes, you’re seeing the same shift: a return to ritual and meaning. It is not about faith, but about form, and how we translate that into personal form. 

Rihanna’s Met Gala 2018 look, created by Maison Margiela and Creative Director, John Galliano. She channels Catholic gander through bejeweled fabrics and mitre. Photographed by Getty Images. Available via Vogue. © All rights belong to their respective owners. No copyright infringement intended.